Glazes and Tools
IN STOCK ITEMS AVAILABLE NOW!
Please read all glaze instructions below.
Excited to be offering Clayscapes cone 5/6 glazes made in Central NY now to Southeast Virginia and beyond!
*Shipping - Glazes can be picked-up or delivered locally for those local to Hampton Roads Virginia or shipping calculated at checkout.
- All glazes are sold as dry mixes - just add brushing medium (if applicable) and water. Glaze Mixing Video. Instructions to mix for brushing in large quantities, in brushing mix bottles, or as dipping/pouring glazes with recommended hydrometer readings are below.
Glaze test-tiles with each product are shown to give you an idea of the color you are ordering. Color varies with application and clay-body. Additional pictures are provided for reference in layering glazes etc. for convenience, but should be tested using your processes prior to application on final work.
SAFETY WARNINGS - Tableware producers must test all finished ware to establish dinnerware status due to possible variations in firing temperature, contamination, and layering. All powdered dry glazes contain Crystalline Silica which is known to the State of California to cause cancer and/or birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov. Always use a NIOSH approved respirator, do not use around food or beverages, and provide adequate ventilation. In order to ensure successful results, test before using. Glazes are non-returnable.
- How much to buy? This depends on the amount needed when mixed wet. Approximately 1 pound of dry glaze makes 1 pint of wet glaze (see guidance documentation - some glazes require more water than others therefore not all will equal 1 pint when properly mixed.) 5 pounds dry will fit in a gallon bucket when mixed with some room for dipping/pouring. 10 pounds dry will fit in a 3 gallon bucket when mixed with some room for dipping/pouring.
Amy's quantity recommendations: I start with 20 pounds dry to a 5 gallon bucket - depending on the glaze, this will either leave a lot or a little room in the bucket for dipping/pouring. Then, I keep 10 pound quantities of my regular-use glazes on-hand dry to replenish my 5 gallon dipping bucket as needed by mixing it in a separate bucket and sieving it into my studio-use bucket.
Read all mixing and safety information prior to use.
Brushing Consistency Mixing Instructions (Per Pound Instructions from Bulk Box)
Link to Jiffy Mixer - The recommended tool for mixing 1lb Dry Brushing Mixes in Bottles.
How to re-hydrate thickened or dried out wet-brushable samples provided by Amy Lee Pottery - cover with water and allow to sit overnight. Stir and add enough water so that they are a thin to medium thickness milkshake consistency.
- Hands/Skin: I try to minimize how long my hands are in any glaze. Unless I know the exact ingredients and their safety - I prefer caution. Even the most inert ingredients in glazes have skin-drying properties. If you'd like to wear gloves these reusable ones are a favorite.
- Lungs/Masks: I wear a P100 rated mask whenever mixing any dry ingredients in my clay studio. This is the base-mask I use. These are the Pink particulate filters in the 3M brand for reference that fit onto a face piece like this. This is a great starter kit for mixing dry glazes.
***If I'm working with any lusters or other items that off-gas any volatile organic chemicals (e.g. lusters, opals, etc. in ceramics), I wear a P100 cartridge that is also fitted with Organic Vapor/Acid Gas part to the cartridge.
- Sieving/Filtering - This process makes sure you get all the good fine particles in your slurry and none of the larger particles or contaminants that are natural from the mined sources of constituents in glazes. I sieve all my glazes. Sieves are rated in mesh sizes that are described in different ways. This chart helps understand the different mesh size descriptions. I really like this mesh that fits in a 5-gallon bucket and has a really large mesh area for the glaze to filter through. I like to have some of these spatulas on hand in the studio to help push the glaze through the sieve and just general use needs.
- I always use a hydrometer (measures specific gravity) to mix my glazes to a consistent fluidity. Most of the problems that new mixed glazes have in firings have to do with getting the right thickness. With Clayscapes glazes there are recommended tested hydrometer readings that are a great starting point. Once you dial-in the hydrometer reading for your specific water source that works great in your firings, you'll have that as a reference for mixing new batches.
- Test glazes on your clay and process before placing into production.
- Glazes are non-returnable.
- Satin Black, Copper Patina, and Garden Green are not food-use appropriate.
- This Facebook Group is great to join to search and read about others experiences with these glazes as well as share your experiences!
- How to get started? Combos and must haves...
-- Looking for glossy translucency over relief? Try the Celadon's: Shadow Blue, Amber Celadon, Tim's Dark Green, Smokey Purple, Fog Grey, Clear. (No mason-stains to create colors).
-- Looking for glossy bright colors? Try 'The Brooklyn Line' of colors.
-- Combo must-have ideas: Shadow Blue with Amber Celadon, Aqua with Tim's Dark Green
-- My favorites: Cream, Crystal Clear (Zinc Free), Clinton Pottery Red, Coastal Blue, Spruce Blue.
-- Want something more advanced: Try the Galaxy Bowl Combination: 2 dips Starry Night all the way to the bottom of the pot - wipe drips from rim. Then drip/pour Arctic Blue, Wheat, and Turquoise Rain on top.
-- Check out the combo pictures with each glaze listing for more combo ideas!